Even if you are unfamiliar to the significance and history of Ayutthaya, pilgrims to Thailand’s second capital are utterly awestruck by the incredible beauty and magnificence of this city built by some 33 Ayutthaya kings over four centuries.

Even today, exploring the majestic and formidable ruins of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, it is easy to appreciate the vision of the monarchs who built it. Monumental remnants of temple chedi, soaring amber-sash Buddha statues, and scattered red brick temples, are spread across a tranquil, pretty garden landscape. Located 85 km. (55 miles) north of Bangkok in the lush Central Plains, Ayutthaya was mapped out at the picturesque junction of three rivers: Chao Phraya, Pa Sak, and Lopburi. Resourceful engineers had to ingeniously cut a man-made canal across the loop of the Chao Phraya to create a strongly defensive artificial island. Canals were also constructed as busy watery avenues, with ornate palaces and sacred temples standing stately along the riverbanks.

At its pinnacle during the 17th century, the glittering medieval kingdom was one of the largest municipalities in the world, eclipsing cities like London. Supplanting and incorporating the ageing Sukhothai into its stretching umbrella of power, the Ayutthaya Empire reached as far west as Pegu in Myanmar, and eastward to Angkor in Cambodia. The commercial and diplomatic might of the wealthy kingdom lured foreign merchants from across Asia, the Middle East, and Europe. Welcomed by the local populace, many of these international traders settled into small communities within Ayutthaya, contributing to the kingdom’s cosmopolitan aura.

The magnificent canal-lined island city with some 2,000 golden spires affectionately became known as ‘Venice of the East’. Today, chartering a long-tail boat for a trip around the canal moat is the most enjoyable way to absorb many of the momentous riverbank ruins. Fittingly declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, this centre of Asian civilisation is a must see for any traveller to Thailand. Boat operators from Bangkok organize atmospheric cruises up river from the modern capital to the illustrious city, including modern express boats and luxuriously renovated traditional rice barges.

The City Isle

Named after the mythical kingdom of Ayodhya (meaning undefeated in Sanskrit) from the epic fable the Ramayana (Ramakien in Thai), Ayutthaya was officially established in 1350 by King Ramathibodi I (U-Thong). The strategic city was in close proximity to the Gulf of Thailand, enabling the profitable flow of international sea trade. The riverine fortress flourished and soon surpassed Sukhothai as the principal Siamese kingdom, gradually becoming the economic, cultural, and artistic heart of the region. Successive kings added to and embellished the resplendent palaces and 400 temples, giving the island unrivalled spiritual and leadership focus.

During this flourishing era, Ayutthaya saw great legal, administrative, and military progress. Architects and city planners excelled in mapping out a grand city, while master craftsmen adeptly worked gold, stone, and wood, to dress the city in unparalleled treasures. One of the most dazzling sights that foreigners witnessed as they sailed into Ayutthaya, were the fantastically ornate wood-carved royal barges that carried the king and his family around the city. Militarily, Ayutthaya led a powerful army of elephant riding warriors, often fighting battles against the neighbouring adversaries of Myanmar and Cambodia. King Naresuan the Great (1555-1605) was heralded as one of Ayutthaya’s greatest and bravest rulers, liberating the kingdom from Burmese occupation in 1585. In one legendary battle, King Naresuan defeated a Burmese crown prince in a fierce sword duel atop wrestling war elephants.

After 400 hundred years in the spotlight, during the 18th century Ayutthaya began to decline. The tragic culmination came in 1767, when the Burmese invading army laid siege before conquering and razing the once proud city to the ground. When King Taksin finally liberated the kingdom, a new ruling dynasty was established and the capital moved south to Thonburi and then eventually to Bangkok. Sadly many of Ayutthaya’s irreplaceable treasures were destroyed or stolen, but the artistic and architectural masterpieces that did survive are today on view for the world to experience and remember how this once great city unified the Thai people into an honourable nation. Ayutthaya’s legacy can also be seen in the early Bangkok, or Rattanakosin style, of architecture and art that today enriches the Grand Palace and regal surrounds of Rattanakosin Island.

The Reclining Buddha at Wat Yai Chaimongkon, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Principal Sights

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Historical Park

Ayutthaya’s temples are dotted throughout this once glorious city, along the encircling rivers, and in the surrounding countryside. At least one full day is needed to fully appreciate the magnitude of the historical park, with plenty of relaxing provincial accommodation available for those who wish to spend a night or more in the modern version of Ayutthaya town. One of the best ways to explore the restored complex of ruins is by pedal power, renting a bicycle is a peaceful and enjoyable mode of getting up close to the monuments. For a more unique journey of discovery, chartering a long-tail boat allows you to absorb the attractions from a riverine perspective. And for a truly Thai tour of the city, hop up on the back of an elephant, and gently ride through time atop these wise beasts.

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Historical Study Centre

Funded by the Japanese government on land that was once a part of historic Ayutthaya’s Japanese residential quarter, the creatively designed modern building houses fantastic hi-tech exhibits that transport visitors back in time to capture life in Ayutthaya as it was in its heyday. There are colourful murals as well as delicately constructed models of the city in its former glory.

Royal Palace

While not much exists of the old royal palace, Wang Luang, the brickwork remnants of the foundations still convey the grand scale of the regal lodgings. Established by King Borommatrailokanat in the 15th century and expanded by successive kings, the original site boasted three impressive receptions halls – the five-tiered roof of Sanphet Prasat Hall, Suriyat Amarin Hall, and Wihan Somdet Hall. The palace was razed by the Burmese in 1767.

Wat Chai Wattanaram, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

A part of the original palace grounds, next door stand the three famous Sri Lankan style chedi of Wat Phra Sri Sanphet. The royal chapel was where kings came to pray, and was the largest and most beautiful in Ayutthaya, a focal point of reverence just as the Emerald Buddha Temple is in Bangkok.

Two of the chedi were built in 1492 by Borommatrailokanat’s son Ramathibodi II to hold the ashes of his father and brother, while the third was added in 1540 by Ramathibodi’s son to hold the ashes of his late father. Today, the three perfectly symmetrical restored spires have become the symbolic landmark of Ayutthaya.

Chankasem Palace

Known as the Front Palace, King Maha Thammaracha built it for his son Prince Naresuan (later king), and it became the residence for future heirs to the throne. In 1767, the Burmese destroyed the palace, but King Mongkut (Rama IV) later resurrected it in the 19th century as a royal summer retreat. The palace now houses the small Chantharakasem National Museum, whose collection is most certainly worthy of perusal.

Chao Sam Phraya National Museum

Priceless treasures from the crypts of Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana enrich Thailand’s second largest museum, along with relics and artworks that span all major Thai art styles. Spread over two floors, the well-presented collection allows visitors to appreciate the intricacies and historic developments of Thai art and culture.

Wat Mahathat

Wat Mahathat, or Temple of the Great Relic, was originally once one of the most arresting temples in Ayutthaya, and one of its oldest, dating from the 1380s Constructed by King Boromaraja I, the chapel was the gravitating point for religious ceremonies, and where the Supreme Patriarch resided. Its divine attribute was its lofty laterite prang, which originally stood 50 metres (165 ft) tall. The prang later collapsed but the base foundations, which are circled by smaller restored chedi, still give visitors a strong impression of its sheer scale. A curious sight at the temple front is a dismembered stone Buddha head that has been embedded in the roots of an old banyan tree.

Wat Chai Wattanaram, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Wat Ratchaburana

One of Ayutthaya’s finest temples, Wat Ratchaburana was built in 1424 by the seventh king of Ayutthaya as a memorial to his elder brothers who had died together duelling to see who would inherit the throne.

Excavations in 1957 revealed a crypt hidden deep below the central tower, containing a fabulous wealth of priceless gold jewellery, rare Buddha images and other art objects.

Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit

For two centuries after Ayutthaya’s fall, a huge bronze Buddha sat exposed to the elements near Wat Phra Sri Sanphet. Based on the original building, a new Viharn Phra Mongkhon Bophit was built in 1956 around the restored statue.

Dating to the 15th century and over 12 metres tall, it is one of Thailand’s largest bronze images and is highly revered by local pilgrims.

Wat Phra Ram

Founded in 1369 by the son of Ayutthaya’s founding king, this is one of Ayutthaya’s oldest temples. The central terrace is dominated by a crumbling prang adorned with stucco naga, garuda, and Buddha statues. The reflection of the prang shimmers in the pond of lilies that surrounds the chapel, contributing to one of the island’s most relaxing locations.

Phra Chedi Si Suriyothai

This pagoda shrine commemorates the life and heroism of the Ayutthayan Queen Suriyothai, who masqueraded as a male warrior and rode an elephant into battle, sacrificing her life by interrupting a dual between her husband King Maha Chakraphetand a Burmese prince.

Off the Island

Upstream from Wat Phanan Choeng, the idyllic Wat Phutthaisawan juts up from the river’s edge. The quiet landing area is a wonderful spot to soak up the peaceful river afternoons. Farther upstream, the modest Cathedral of St Joseph is a Christian reminder of the large European community that made Ayutthaya their home.

Where the river bends is one of Ayutthaya’s most scenic locales, Wat Chai Wattanaram. The temple is popular with snap-happy tourists, especially towards sundown. Restored in the 1990s, the temple was built by King Prasat Thong. Standing tall on a pedestal in front of the chapel, a Buddha keeps watch over the domain.

Fireworks at Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Ayutthaya Historical Park

Wat Na Phra Men was one of Ayutthaya’s only temples not to be destroyed by the Burmese. The pleasant setting conveys a more tangible sense of Ayutthayan architecture. The temple has several standout features including a large stone Buddha seated in the ‘European fashion’ on a throne, very different to the subduing Mara position of most seated Buddhas. With a huge chedi, Wat Yai Chai Mongkol was built to celebrate King Naresuan the Great’s slaying of the Burmese crown prince in 1592.

In grounds that are some of Ayutthaya’s best maintained, lines of Buddha images skirt the inner walls and there is also a large white reclining Buddha. Slightly north of the island, Wat Phu Khao Thong, better known as the Golden Mount, stands with its 80-metre-high (260-ft) chedi alone amidst the paddy fields, its elevated terraces offer a sweeping view of the landscape. In the opposite direction from the Golden Mount, is the only elephant kraal left in Thailand. This 16th century kraal is a reminder of a time when elephants were a vital element to a victorious army. Standing in the restored stockade with its huge wooden stacks, one can imagine the roar of the powerful pachyderms.

Getting There

By Rail
Trains depart from Hua Lamphong Railway Station in Bangkok several times daily and the journey takes around two hours.

By Bus
Buses leave every 30 minutes from the Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaent Phet II Road. The journey takes around 90 minutes.

By Car
Take Highway No.1 (Phahonyothin Road), and then take Highway No.2 to Ayutthaya.

By Boat
Several companies operate boat excursions to Ayutthaya some return the same day, while others take 2-3 days. The Chao Phraya Express Boat leaves every Sunday from Maharat Pier at 8 a.m., arriving in Ayutthaya around 10.30 a.m. The boat arrives back in Bangkok around 6 p.m. Tel. 0 2222 5330