The ancient town of Si Satchanalai was a satellite city to Sukhothai, situated on a lonely wooded plain about 50 km. north of the modern town of Sukhothai on the east bank of the Yom River. Strategically protected by mountains, swamps and river rapids, the remote, peaceful locale, with an incredible 134 temples and monuments, has been independently declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, yet surprisingly sees far fewer visitors than neighbouring Sukhothai. The tranquillity of historic ruins heightened by an absence of human traffic evokes a feeling of discovering a lost city.

Established in the 13th century as a Khmer military outpost, the town became the official residence for Sukhothai’s successive Prince Regents. Formerly called Muang Chaliang and during the Ayutthayan era was also known as Suwankhalok, the town was linked to Sukhothai by a 50 km. long road called the Phra Ruang Highway. This commercial centre was strongly fortified with a 10 m. wide moat lined with wooden spikes and three rows of perimeter walls in what is known as one of Thailand’s best planned cities. Apart from being a pleasure to explore, Si Satchanalai is also well recognised for the masterful ceramics produced in the nearby villages of Ban Ha Yang and Ban Ko-Noi to the north. Sangkhalok ceramics (pale blue or off-white porcelain, its intricate decorative patterns such as floral, foliage or fish motifs reveal the Chinese influence) is reputed as Southeast Asia’s finest of the day. Today, it is still possible to buy genuine antique Sangkhalok ceramics in the area.

Principal Sights

Wat Chang Lom

Meaning ‘Elephant Temple’ after the 39-stucco pachyderm sculptures that surround the central bell-shaped chedi base, Wat Chang Lom is Si Satchanalai’s principal monument. Built in 1285 by King Ramkam-haeng the Great, this most sacred of pagodas is Thailand’s earliest example of Ceylonese-style temple architecture. Beautifully ornamental laterite terraces, columns and a wall encircle the monument, with a line of niches that house stucco Buddha images peacefully meditating.

Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo

Across from Wat Chang Lom, this temple has seven rows of lotus-bud shaped chedi, marvellously decorated in various Asian architectural styles. Thought to house the ashes of the ruling Si Satchanalai dynasty, the 30-plus monuments imbue the Sukhothai style, as well as the best of Lao, Khmer, Ceylonese, and Burmese temple art. Archways and graceful walking Buddha images further enrich this gorgeous and architecturally significant temple.

Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng

A steep laterite staircase leads to the top of a small wooded hill near Wat Chang Lom, where lies this former site of ritual cremations. Appropriately named the ‘Temple of Mountain Fire’, the monument consists of a central Ceylonese-style brick chedi, and a large seated Buddha. Views from the top of the hill take in the splendid panorama of Si Satchanalai’s grand architectural design. A footpath from the temple leads to another larger hilltop just south, atop which stand the remains of the huge bell-shaped chedi at Wat Khao Suwan Khiri.

Wat Nang Phaya

South of Wat Chang Lom, this monument meaning ‘Temple of the Queen’ was one of the later structures to take root in 15th century Si Satchanalai. Aside from the Ceylonese chedi, a solitary chapel wall stands, famous for its magnificent surviving stucco floral relief decoration, which imitates the Ayutthayan artistic style.

Ruin of Old Celadon Factory (Thuriang Kiln)

The area around Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai are deservedly famed for their skilled tradition of ceramic production, known as Sangkhalok pottery. During the peak of popularity in the 14th-16th centuries, over 200 potters’ kilns lined the banks of the Yom River, moulding the world’s best glazed ceramics, celadon and decorative porcelain that were exported all over Southeast Asia. Interesting excavations of several kilns can be visited around the town of Sawankhalok, as well as the Sawankha Woranayok National Museum, which holds an extensive collection of well-preserved quality ceramics, many of which were salvaged from sunken ships in the Gulf of Thailand.

Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat

Slightly south of Si Satchanalai in Chaliang, nestled on a riverbank in a bend of the Yom River, Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat centres round a supreme laterite prang. The 15th century structure is surrounded by the ruins of two chapels with several Buddha images, including a large seated Sukhothai Buddha with elegant long fingers, as well as a brick and stucco walking Buddha that is considered a masterpiece of the Sukhothai School.

Getting There

Buses leave regularly from Sukhothai town to Si Satchanalai. The journey of 60
km. takes around an hour.

Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park - A Defensive Citadel

Eighty kilometres south of Sukhothai in the opposite direction to Si Satchanalai, is the modest town of Kamphaeng Phet, in the province of the same name. Away  from the main tourist trail, Kamphaeng Phet (Diamond Wall) lies on the banks of the Ping River and was once a strategic garrison town for the defence of the mighty Sukhothai kingdom.

Although settlements date back to the 11th century, the Old City was established in 1347 by King Li Thai. To date, the ruins have been less restored than Sukhothai, and the 400-hectare Old City with its overgrown temples and six-metre high laterite walls, has a wilder and more untouched atmosphere compared to its familiar neighbour. A journey here is rewarded by an authentic slice of Thai life around the sleepy modern town, along with solitary walks around ancient ruins. Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park is roughly divided into two areas – the sights within the city walls and those beyond to the north. Some of the highlights include Wat Phra Kaeo, the park’s largest ruin with its weathered Buddha statues and chedi, and behind the temple is Kamphaeng Phet National Museum, which holds an interesting collection of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures. Also worthy of perusal is Wat Phrathat with its fine chedi and the Lak Mueang or City Pillar Shrine, whose guardian spirits protect local residents. Beyond the city walls are an intriguing collection of ruined forest temples, such as Wat Chang Rop (Elephant Temple), which date from the 14th - 16th centuries and were once the home of a meditation sect.

Getting There

There are direct buses from Bangkok to Kamphaeng Phet town from the Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaeng Phet II Road. The journey takes around five hours. Otherwise visitors can take a local bus or private mini van from Sukhothai town.