Ban Chiang is most famous for the stunning pottery the ancient settlers elaborately crafted, particularly the distinct burnt-ochre pots and vases with their swirling geometric designs painted on. Using the latest technology for accurate chronological dating, some of the ceramics found are said to be 6-7000 years old. Other precious relics uncovered include bronze bracelets, bangles, anklets, metal spearheads, and axe-heads. Discoveries of such early metallurgy indicate that bronze technology could have certainly been passed from Thailand to China, and not vice versa as originally believed.

Set amidst the lush rural paddy fields on a large plateau in Thailand’s north-eastern province of Udon Thani, is the small countryside village of Ban Chiang. This once sleepy backwater grabbed the attention of archaeologists the world over, when in 1966, an American anthropology student accidentally tripped on the ground only to find the rim of a partially buried clay pot. Awestruck by the creative designs and striking earth-red colour, he became more excited noticing curious shards of pottery scattered in the fields all around him. The momentous discovery would later lead to an international team of archaeologists to unearth evidence of a lost civilisation dating back some 5,000 years.

Not far from the border of Lao P.D.R., at the picturesque confluence of three small tributary streams in Udon Thani, Ban Chiang has become one of the most interesting and important archaeological discoveries in Southeast Asia of the 20th century. The land that time forgot, much of what has been uncovered in the three decades of excavation has led world historians and anthropologists to drastically revise their previous notions of human development in this part of Asia. One of the most significant revelations is that northeast Thailand was one of the earliest centres of bronze and iron production in the world.

With mysterious artefacts dating from around 3600 BC to 200 AD, Ban Chiang testifies to a different Bronze Age in Asia, more sophisticated and advanced than originally thought by scholars. So far researchers have meticulously dug up literally thousands upon thousands of rare artefacts that trace back various periods of settlement, providing proof to the evolution of small self-contained agrocommunities that possessed sophisticated tools and customs for the time.

Evidence of Ban Chiang’s prehistoric communities shows that these were peaceful agrarian folk, who survived by farming the land and hunting wild animals. With excavations still continuing to unearth important finds, some of the discoveries are still a mystery to archaeologists.

Today, Ban Chiang’s laid-back hamlet is a bewitching escape from more established tourist centres, and along with Udon Thani, makes for a wonderful locale to spend a lazy couple of days. Wander Ban Chiang village and make friends with the welcoming local villagers, who are skilled artisans in their own right. Family-run creative cottage industries produce replica earthenware here and in the neighbouring village of Ban Pulu, as well as other traditional crafts like beautiful handwoven fabrics.

Nestled on the village edge, wile away several hours surveying the extensive Ban Chiang National Museum (open daily 9am-4pm), displaying an excellent collection of earthenware ceramics, bronze jewellery and tools, stone objects, shells, as well as glass beads. The informative museum also has displays on excavation techniques, aerial photographs of the village, as well as detailed explanations of the site’s history. From the museum, a pleasant stroll along dusty village lanes lined with quaint wooden shophouses, brings you to the peaceful grounds of Wat Pho Si Nai. This rustic temple contains ancient burial sites that were some of the first plots to be uncovered back in 1972 and are preserved under specially built shelters. Inside these eerie graves are skeletal remains, along with ceramics, weapons, tools, jewellery, and animal skulls.

This remarkable on-site museum reveals facts about people’s death rituals, the average life expectancy, and causes of death at the time. Come to this quiet northeastern hideaway to help participate in rediscovering a fundamental period of Thai and Asian history, and examine the remnants of what is possibly one of the world’s oldest settlements.

Getting There

By Air
Thai Airways operates daily flights between Bangkok and Udon Thani. Tel. 0 2280 0060, Hotline: 1566 Website: www.thaiairways.com Air Asia also has flights from Bangkok to Udon Thani. Tel. 0 2515 9999 Website: www.airasia.com

By Rail
Trains regularly depart from Bangkok Hua Lamphong Railway Station to Udon Thani. Tel. 0 2220 4334, Hotline: 1690 Website: www.railway.co.th. From Udon Thani town, take a sawngthaew (van with bench seats) to Ban Chiang.

By Bus
Bangkok-Udon Thani buses leave regularly from the Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaeng Phet II Road with the journey taking around 10 hours. Tel. 0 2936 2852-66 Website: www.transport.co.th

By Car
From Bangkok, take Highway No.1 to Saraburi and onto Highway to Udon Thani via Nakhon Ratchasima and Khon Kaen, a total distance of 564 km.